Introduction
In some rare cases, an Opus 2 might not be able to grind fine enough to pull a shot of espresso you enjoy with a specific coffee. When this does happen, it's often one or a combination of the following factors:
- The coffee is very lightly roasted
- The coffee hasn't rested for very long
- The shot being pulled is done so with a medium/long preinfusion stage
The good news is that Opus 2 can be calibrated finer, and it's a relatively easy process! In this article, we cover the steps to complete this process in both video and written form.
Table of Contents
An Important Note
The instructions in the article below are specifically meant to be used when all other variables have been ruled out when dialing in a shot. It's important to note that calibrating an Opus 2 finer will not help if the shot is running too fast because of things like...
- The machine is under-dispensing water
- The coffee isn't tamped hard enough or at all
- The recipe, or shot profile in the case of Series 1, is such that it can't reach the target time (for example, if you're trying to hit a 30-second shot but the infusion time is set to 20 seconds in the machine)
Video Instructions
Written Instructions
Tools Needed
To complete the calibration process, you'll need to grab a small Phillips and flathead screwdriver. In the video example, we used one with interchangeable tips.
Part 1: Accessing the Screws
To begin, unplug your Opus 2.
Once it's unplugged, turn the adjustment dial forward until the Opus 2 is set to zero. Turn the load bin counterclockwise to unlock it, and lift it away from the Opus 2.
Once you remove the load bin, you’ll see two small, black tabs like the one circled in the GIF below, one on each side.
Use the flathead screwdriver to gently push the first tab in, and then up. Once there’s enough of a gap, gently pull the first side of the circular cover up with your hand.
Then, repeat the same process for the other side. Once the second tab is released, the cover will come off.
Part 2: Calibration
Once the circular cover is off, you’ll see two Phillips head screws like the ones in the GIF below. Use your Phillips head screwdriver to turn them 3 full rotations counterclockwise.
If it’s helpful, pick one of the four points on the screw, and make sure it comes all the way back around to its starting point to count a rotation. This will loosen the screws, but they shouldn’t come out completely.
Once this is complete, gently lift the outer ring with the grind adjustments on it. It shouldn’t come off completely because of the screws.
Holding the outer ring up, focus on one of the two screws you loosened, and turn the grind adjustment dial clockwise (or away from you if you're facing the front of the grinder. Turn the dial until the screw is one screw-head width from where it was before.
Look at the screws in the GIF below. You can roughly see how far the screw should travel if we overlay where it was before and where it is after adjusting.
In some cases, you may need to adjust the screws farther than a single "screw-head width". If you notice that your shots are upwards of 15-20 seconds too fast before calibrating and all other factors have been ruled out, try going 2 or 3 "screw-head widths" instead.
Just make sure to not go farther than 4 to ensure the burrs aren't at risk of touching.
Part 3: Putting Everything Back Together
Once you’ve adjusted the screw placement, reseat the outer ring, ensuring the 0 setting is still above the red line.
Then, tighten the two Phillips-head screws until they're snug. Please avoid over-tightening them.
Line up the small black tabs on the bottom of the ring you removed earlier, and reapply it by gently pressing down.
Finally, reattach the load bin and lock it into place by turning it counter-clockwise.
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